The light and light materials are light and elegant, and some materials have a certain permeability because of their lightness and thinness. Whether it is silk fabric, chemical fiber fabric or blended fabric, most of them have good breathability and moisture permeability, so they are mainly used for making summer. clothing. Light and thin materials tend to be loose in structure, soft in texture, and poor in dimensional stability. In the production of garments, problems such as deformation of the pieces, small straight stitches, deformation of the fabric wrinkles, drape of the drape, and separation of the seams are often encountered. Therefore, in the face of thin and light fabrics, we should pay attention to the following aspects: (1) Lightweight fabrics are particularly easy to slide during cutting, resulting in uneven edges on the garment. In order to prevent the piece from shifting out, you can fix the fabric on the same size paper with a pin. Pay attention to keep the tightness of the fabric when laying. Pay attention to the horizontal and vertical blood of the silk. The fixed pin should be selected at the edge of the fabric. Or the neutral part of the piece. When the fabric ∞f is tight, you can cut the edge or pull the edge of the cloth. For some high-grade thin fabrics, in order to prevent the warp and weft yarns from twisting or the upper and lower layers being misaligned, the fabric can be fixed on a thin white cloth and then cut together with the white cloth. For some parts with higher precision requirements, the same method can be used for cutting. (3) When sewing, a variety of different degrees of friction are generated, which may cause the seam stitches to be not straight. Therefore, when sewing light and thin fabrics, care should be taken to control the friction between the fabric and the presser foot, the teeth and the fabric, and the fabric and the fabric. 1 The presser foot should use the standard plastic presser foot with smooth bottom to reduce the friction between the fabric and the presser foot. 2 Use the younger teeth and adjust the teeth to the lowest position as much as possible to ensure that the teeth can be fed evenly. 3 When sewing, it is necessary to control the speed of the car. The speed of the car should be controlled at 2,500 to 3,500 stitches per minute to ensure uniform stitching. (4) When fabricating light and thin fabrics, wrinkles and even structural deformations often occur, which is closely related to the matching of fabrics and sewing threads, stitches and operation gestures during sewing. 1 To avoid the use of thick needle thick line, you should choose small round needle and needle needle from 9 to 14, the sewing thread should be soft and flexible with the toughness and shrinkage matching the fabric. 2 pay attention to control the tension of the sewing thread, so that it is reduced as much as possible; the stitches should be too dense, and the stitches of the chain structure are better than the stitching of the lock structure. When sewing, Liu's small bending edge can forcibly sew the edge of the curved FHl, but should be automatically sewed along the edge of the cloth with the teeth, as shown in Figure 9-2; Liu' In the relatively straight seam, in order to control the speed of feeding the teeth, the fabric can be properly stretched before and after the presser foot, as shown in Figure 9-3. T/R Ponte De Roma Fabric,Black Ponte Roma Fabric,Roma Jersey Fabric,Ponte De Roma Double Knit Fabric Jiangyin Xiangxu Textile Co., Ltd. , https://www.fabricxiangxu.com
(2) When scribing, the fabric is light and thin, and should avoid using hard and sharp instruments to mark the fabric to avoid scratching the fabric surface; avoid using the powder to mark the surface of the fabric to avoid leaving traces difficult to remove. For the part that must be marked, a wire nail can be used. Because the fabric is light and easy to slip, the needle should be properly relaxed when making the nail, and the deformation of the sample should be avoided by the method of returning the needle, as shown in Figure 1-1.
(5) The selection of the lining cloth of the thin and light fabric is usually based on the design needs, so as not to affect the drape of the fabric, the thinnest lining is often used, and the design should be used to reduce the area of ​​the lining. For particularly soft and thin fabrics, the mouth J' is replaced by a fabric of the same color or other materials of the same style.
(6) The density of the fabric is small, and the edge is easy to be dissipated. The edge of the sewn fabric and the seam treatment are different from those of the ordinary fabric. 1 For some flat seams such as side seams, because their position is relatively more in contact with the human body, they tend to be subjected to greater tensile force. Therefore, it is generally not suitable to use ordinary edging, but more inclined to use rice to cover or Use other fabrics with higher density to cut the strips for the method of rolling, especially the piping is not only the mouth, to avoid the separation of the cloth edge, but also for the transparent fabric to hide the seam decoration effect, as shown in Figure 9 4 and Figure 9-5. 2 For loose parts such as clothes, skirts, cuffs, etc., the method of three-folding is often adopted, and the width of the folded edge should not be too wide, generally 0.2~o. 8 cm is the mouth. The method of three-folding not only makes the edge of the cloth unsuitable, but also because the edge of the cloth tends to stretch during the sewing process, the edge of the sewing will have some undulations, and for some wave-shaped hem, there are often more Good visual effect.