[Textile knowledge] Knitted fabric technology, very comprehensive! Worth forwarding forwarding ~

Knitting garment processing knowledge popularization

Knitwear is mostly made of cotton and chemical fiber cotton yarn. It is characterized by softness, elasticity, breathability, sweat absorption and comfortable wearing, such as sportswear and underwear. Knitwear, as a garment, has its characteristics in addition to its commonality with woven garments.

Process:

Spinning → weaving → inspection → cutting → sewing → ironing → inspection.

First, spinning

The purpose of spinning is to wind the incoming cotton yarn into a package of certain structure and specifications to suit the knitting production. In the spinning process, it is necessary to eliminate some defects existing on the yarn, and at the same time, the yarn has a certain uniform tension, and the yarn is subjected to necessary auxiliary treatment, such as waxing, oiling, etc., to improve the knitting performance of the yarn. Improve production efficiency and improve product quality.

Second, the preparation of

Weaving is a process in which a yarn is organized into a woven fabric by a loom to form a fabric. This is also the fundamental difference between knitwear and woven garments.

The weaving method can be divided into two types of weft knitting and warp knitting, and the fabrics for knitting garments are mostly weft knitted fabrics. Weft knitting is the feeding of one or several yarns from the weft direction to the working needle of the knitting machine, the yarns are sequentially bent into a loop, and the yarns are stringed to form a weft knitted fabric. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a weft knitting machine. Weft knitting has a great adaptability to the type and linear density of the processed yarn, and the variety of knitted fabrics produced is also extensive. Weft-knitted fabrics are available in a wide variety of fabrics, which can be woven into fabrics for interior and exterior garments of various tissues, and can be woven into single-piece forming and partially-formed products. The weft-knitted process and machine structure are relatively simple and easy to operate. The production efficiency is relatively high, so the weft knitting has a large proportion in the knitting industry. There are many types of weft knitting machines, which are generally distinguished by the number of needle beds, the form of needle beds and the type of needles. The warp knitting is composed of one or several sets of yarns arranged in parallel, which are respectively arranged on the knitting needle while being woven in the longitudinal direction. The machine used to weave such a knitted fabric is called a warp knitting machine. Generally, the warp knitted fabric has less dispersibility and elongation than the weft knitted fabric, and has better structure and shape stability, and its use is also wider. In addition to producing fabrics for clothes, it can also produce mosquito nets, curtains, and laces. Decorative fabrics, medical fabrics, etc., warp knitting machines can also be distinguished by needle beds and needles.

Third, fabric inspection

Since the quality of the grey fabric is directly related to the quality and output of the finished product, it is necessary to check whether the number of horses, size, density, lot number, and linear density meet the requirements according to the cutting cloth ingredient list before cutting. Carry out inspections, marking and quality records of various defects affecting the quality of finished products, such as color flowers, missing needles, holes, oil stains, etc.

Fourth, cut

The main process of knitting garment cutting: breakage → borrowing → scribing → cutting → strapping.

Borrowing is an important part of improving product quality and saving materials. In the process of breaking the material, the defects on the grey fabric are borrowed to the cutting parts or the seams.

Knitted fabrics are cut according to the warp mesh accessories. The cutting is generally carried out by means of sleeve cutting. Commonly used are flat sleeves, mutual sleeves, inlay sleeves, stitching sleeves, and slit sleeves.

Knitted fabrics should pay attention to the following items during cutting :

1. Do not use the folded marks and printed edges on the obvious parts of the garment.

2. Do not use tapered hole marks during cutting to avoid affecting the appearance of the garment.

Fifth, sewing

The existing sewing technology and equipment in China's knitting industry are mainly sewing machines of medium and high speed sewing machines (commonly known as "flat cars"), medium and high speed overlock sewing machines (commonly known as "cracking cars"), stretch sewing machines, etc. .

Since the knitted fabric is composed of a coil string sleeve, the edge of the cut garment piece is prone to disintegration, so the edge of the garment sheet should be overwrapped (commonly referred to as "copying edge") and then sewn by a sewing machine or the like. The sewing machine and overlock sewing machine are the main types of sewing knitwear. In the sewing process, it is generally necessary to pay attention to the following points.

1. Sewing stitches Because the fabric of the knitted fabric has the characteristics of longitudinal and lateral elongation (ie, elasticity) and the disadvantage that the edge stitches are easily detached, the stitching of the knitted garment should satisfy:

( 1) The stitches shall have stretchability and strength compatible with the knitted fabric.

(2) The seam shall be such as to prevent the fabric coil from being dislodged.

(3) Properly control the density of the stitches. For example, the stitching density of the flat sewing machine of thick fabric is controlled at 9 to 10 needles / 2 cm, the seam density of the overlock sewing machine is 6 to 7 needles / 2 cm, and the stitch density of the flat sewing machine of the thin fabric is controlled at 10 to 11 needles / 2cm, the seam stitching density of the overlock machine is 7-8 needles/2cm.

2.   The suture cotton cotton fabric is made of 9.8tex×4 or 7.4tex×3 pure cotton and polyester-cotton blended yarn. The chemical fiber knitted fabric uses 7.8tex×2 elastic nylon yarn and 5tex×6 nylon thread. The suture must meet the following quality requirements :

(1) The cotton thread (stitch) for sewing machines should be made of combed cotton, which has high strength and uniformity.

(2) The suture should have a certain elasticity to prevent the thread from being broken due to twisting or crushing of the thread during the sewing process.

(3) The suture must be flexible.

(4) The suture must be even and smooth, reducing the resistance or friction of the suture in the line groove and pinhole, to avoid the occurrence of broken lines and uneven stitch tension.

3.   Needle sewing machine needles are also called sewing needles and needles. In order to achieve the ideal fit of the needle with the seam and the stitch, a suitable needle must be selected.

Sixth, ironing

Knitwear is flattened and dimensioned by ironing. When ironing, the liner is placed in the garment to maintain a certain shape and size. The size of the liner is slightly larger than that required for the garment to prevent the size from being too small after retraction. The ironing temperature is generally controlled between 180 ° C and 200 ° C, which is safer and less prone to yellowing and coking.

Seven, product inspection

Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before leaving the factory, including appearance quality and intrinsic quality. The appearance inspection contents include dimensional tolerance, appearance defects, and seam fastness. The internal testing items include fabric unit area weight, color fastness, and shrinkage rate.

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